14 Best Down Jackets For Sub-Zero to Freezing Temperatures

Types of Down Jackets

By “types” in this context I want to talk about style, namely:

• Down vests
• Down sweaters
• Ultralight down jackets
• Mid-weight down jackets
• Heavyweight down jackets

Down Vests

Down vests are any kind of down jacket that doesn’t have sleeves. The biggest pro to a down vest versus any of the other down jacket types is the flexibility it provides.

Want some body warmth without feeling like you’re in a Dominoes pizza warmer? Wear the vest without any other down long sleeve. Need more warmth? Wear the vest over a down sweater or ultralight jacket.

My goal when choosing the best gear is to get high-quality stuff that gives me maximum flexibility. Owning multiple smaller pieces of clothing that can be worn separately or combined for more warmth and protection is a great way to remain flexible without adding too much weight.

Down Sweaters

Here’s where things start to get a bit…fuzzy. (No, not like that itchy sweater Grandma knit you 12 years ago.)

A down sweater is really just a lighter version of a down jacket that doesn’t provide as much insulation.

This thread on Backpacking Light does a good job discussing down sweaters versus down jackets.

The summary? Down sweaters don’t have any universal set of features. Instead the term is more of a marketing phrase to help customers quickly identify the type of usage for the garment. Ultimately, you should evaluate the sweater/jacket based on its materials, features, and intended usage.

Ultralight Down Jackets

An ultralight down jacket is basically anything that can be packed away for a minimalist experience.

Generally, ultralight jackets are made with high-quality down with a high fill power, because you get more ounce-for-ounce insulation. The loftiness of this high fill power down also makes the jacket more compressible.

Despite those pros, ultralight jackets won’t be able to match the insulation power of heavier down jackets, assuming the same type and fill power of down. You may also lose some weather resistance and durability on the jacket’s exterior.

But as I’ve mentioned a couple times already, the lines between all these types of down jackets are blurred. Evaluate the specs of each jacket to decide whether the ultralight your eyeing is really the right type for you.

Mid-Weight Down Jackets

In general, a mid-weight down jacket will be heavier and bulkier than an ultralight, but not necessarily warmer if the down is lower quality!

On the flip side, mid-weight jackets tend to be less bulky with less insulating power than the heavyweight big boys. (But again, not a universal rule.) Check the specs of each model you’re comparing to see if it meets your needs regardless of what “type” the manufacturer calls it.

Heavyweight Down Jackets

The biggest, baddest down jackets around, these are the heavy-duty big boys with a lot of heft, thicker outer shells, and (theoretically) a lot of insulating power.

Looking to go for a camping trip in sub-freezing temperatures? You probably want a heavyweight down jacket, assuming you’re OK to travel with the added bulk.

How to Choose the Best Down Jacket

I think the jackets listed above are the best down jackets out there, but making any “best of” list is rife with peril! What’s best for me may not be best for you.

Use the list above as a jumping off point for the respective brands and product lines. Use the 10 tips below to dial in the best down jacket for your needs.

1. Fill Power
2. Fill Weight
3. Jacket Type
4. Natural vs Synthetic Down
5. Hydrophobic Down and Durable Water Repellents
6. Seam Construction
7. Overall Jacket Weight
8. Compression
9. Jacket Fit
10. Hood or No Hood?

Fill Power

Fill power is the most important thing to know about the down jacket you’re buying, so what is it?

Let’s let the fine folks at REI tell us!

Fill power is a number that indicates the relative quality of down. The number comes from a lab test that measures how many cubic inches of loft one ounce of that down fill produces. Higher fill power numbers indicate greater loft and insulating efficiency.KEN KNAPP, REI

Well done, Ken.

So one ounce of 600-fill power down will take up 600 cubic inches. One ounce of 700-fill power down will take up 700 cubic inches.

Seems counter-intuitive, right? Wouldn’t you think that denser down would keep you warmer? Well, the key to down’s insulating power is actually in the air pockets the down provides. Fluffier down with a higher fill power has more of these micro-air pockets, which provides better insulation efficiency.

Ken also goes on to say that a higher fill power doesn’t necessarily mean a warmer jacket. There are a ton of other factors that go into a jacket’s overall insulation, such as fill weight, type of down, etc. We’ll explore those below.

Fill Weight

Fill power is the oft-cited specification that down jacket providers tell you, but what’s equally important is fill weight.

Let’s say you’re deciding between two down jackets:

• Jacket A has 12 oz of 900-fill power down
• Jacket B has 24 oz of 450-fill power down

Which jacket do you think is warmer?

(This isn’t a trick question.)

Answer: All things equal, they’re equally warm!

Note: I say “all things equal” because a down jacket’s warmth is still more than just fill power and fill weight. You also have to consider how snugly the jacket fits, what the outer shell is made of, whether it has baffles (I’ll explain these below), and more!

In general it’s correct to say that Insulation = Fill Power x Fill Weight. (Again, all else equal.)

Unfortunately, a jacket’s fill weight often is harder to find. Many manufacturers don’t publish it on their product pages.

Seam Construction (e.g. Baffles vs No Baffles)

Seam construction is an oft-overlooked but highly important part of choosing the best down jacket. Basically, there are two types of seams:

1. Sewn-through seams
2. Baffled seams

What the heck are baffles? Take a look at my expertly hand-drawn comparison of the two types below:

Sewn-through seams are when the jacket is stitched directly through the outer layer to the inner layer. The result is a ton of areas where there’s zero down, which means inferior insulation.

Down jackets with baffles have walls in between the layers, which create pockets filled with down. These pockets have two benefits:

1. Prevent the down from clumping up in different areas
2. Have no sewn-through seams to compromise insulation

If you want superior warmth, you want baffles.

Overall Weight

Earlier I mentioned fill weight, which is the weight of the insulation used. This category is overall jacket weight, which includes every other component — outer shell, zipper, overall jacket size, etc.

What’s a good weight? That depends on your preferences and intended uses. Here are some examples of when overall weight will be a factor:

• Bigger people probably need bigger (and heavier) jackets.
• Smaller people probably can purchase smaller (and lighter) jackets.
• Minimalist hikers/campers may want something lighter.
• Synthetic down weighs more per unit insulation than natural down.
• Higher fill power down will provide better insulation per ounce.

What’s your intended use? What kind of weight do you need?

Compression

This is all about packing and convenience.

High fill power natural down has a lot of loft, which means it has a lot of air pockets that can be compressed if you need to store the jacket away. Lower fill power down and synthetic down don’t have as much loft, which means less compression and heavier jackets.

Jacket Fit

How should a down jacket fit for optimal insulation?

• Close to the body, but not too tight; slightly roomy is best
• Allow enough room for any planned undergarments
• Should still maintain full range of motion
• Long enough to cover your waist in seated/bending positions
• Sleeves long enough to cover your wrists when reaching
• Elastic waist/wrists should help keep warmth in even if the jacket is slightly oversized

As with any garment, different brands have different fits.

To Hood or Not to Hood?

That is the last question.

Hoods give you three major benefits:

1. Extra insulation
2. Extra efficiency
3. Extra protection from wind

Because the hood connects directly to the back of the jacket and wraps around your head, it’s tougher for cold air to get in. Plus, the hood keeps your neck warm unlike just wearing a winter hat.

All-in-all, I love down jackets with hoods. You just can’t beat the convenience of having that extra warmth for the back of your neck and ears whenever you need it.

If you’re in the market for a hooded down jacket, consider the following features:

• Drawstrings to tighten and seal in the warmth
• Overall fit and shape
• How much added weight/volume the hood is
• Whether the hood is removable

But a hood isn’t always a good idea! I can think of two instances:

1. Skiing
2. When the down jacket is a mid- or under-layer (personal preference)

But aside from those two situations, I think the hood is always preferable. Your mileage may vary.

Natural Down vs Synthetic Down Jackets

When you’re shopping for the best down jacket, you’ll probably come across two different types of down:

• Natural down, such as duck or goose down
• Synthetic down

The distinction between the two is crucially important to know. At a high level, here’s the comparison:

Natural Down

Best For: Dryer conditions when you need more warmth per unit weight.

• High-quality down jackets can be much lighter for the same insulation power
• Compress more easily, especially high fill power down
• Better insulation in dry conditions
• Longer lifespan when treated well

Synthetic Down

Best For: Moister conditions when you’re OK sacrificing some warmth or weight; also when you’re on a budget!

• Dry more quickly
• Non-allergenic
• Better insulation in wetter conditions (except compared to hydrophobic natural down, which is discussed below)
• Usually less expensive

Suggested Reading: Last Guide to Down vs Synthetic Insulation That You’ll Ever Need

Hydrophobic Down and Durable Water Repellents

Natural down’s biggest drawback is its poor performance in moist/wet conditions. Basically, wet down loses its loft — the tiny air particles in between the feathers — that give it superior powers of insulation.

To combat this, manufacturers have recently developed hydrophobic down, otherwise known as water-resistant down. Hydrophobic down is treated with a synthetic coating to prevent the down from collapsing.

The big question: Does hydrophobic down actually work?

Gizmodo put it to the test with just about the most extreme real world example imaginable: jumping into a frozen lake in a hydrophobic down jacket.

After a full minute submerged, the brave (and insane?) tester emerged from the water with a jacket that wasn’t much heavier than before he jumped in the frozen lake. The hydrophobic down worked!

My two cents? If you have the opportunity (and budget) for natural down, go with the hydrophobic stuff. While you probably won’t be jumping/falling into any frozen lakes, you’ll still be protected against rainfall, sweat, and condensation — all of which are the enemy of regular natural down.